The short answer#
For most Australian households, home charging means a dedicated AC charger on its own circuit, usually rated at 7 kW on single-phase power. It charges overnight, covers most daily driving, and costs far less per kilometre than public fast charging.
The charger itself is a relatively small part of the job. The circuit, switchboard capacity, cable route and load management decide whether the installation is simple or expensive. That is why the electrical assessment should come before the shopping decision.
How home EV charging works#
The wall unit — more accurately called electric vehicle supply equipment, or EVSE — does not convert AC to DC for the car's battery. It provides a safe, controlled AC supply and communicates with the vehicle. The car's onboard charger does the conversion.
That single fact explains most of the confusion about speed. A 22 kW charger will not charge a car whose onboard charger is limited to 7 kW. The weakest link sets the rate: the supply, the charger's capacity, the cable and the vehicle.
Most Australian EVs use a Type 2 connector for AC charging. Public DC fast chargers usually use a different connector and bypass the onboard charger, which is why they are much faster. Home charging is almost always AC.
What a home installation includes#
A proper installation usually covers:
- a site assessment of the switchboard, meter and supply capacity
- a dedicated circuit from the board to the parking position
- cable, conduit, isolation and protection to suit the charger
- mounting and termination
- load management if the supply cannot support the charger at full power alongside the house
- commissioning, testing and a handover
The charger may be tethered, with a cable attached, or untethered, using your own cable. Both work. Tethered is convenient; untethered can be more flexible if you change cars or want the cable stored away.
Where the car is parked matters. A garage next to the switchboard is a simple job. A detached carport, a long driveway, a shared basement or a bay across a footpath is not. Cable routes, trenching, fire separations and make-good can add more to the bill than the charger.
How fast will it charge?#
The table below is a planning guide, not a promise. Range added per hour depends on the vehicle's efficiency, the onboard charger, the state of charge and conditions. A small efficient car will add more kilometres per kWh than a large SUV or ute.
| Supply and charger | Typical power | Indicative range added per hour |
|---|---|---|
| Existing 10 A socket (portable) | 2.3 kW | 10–15 km |
| 16 A dedicated circuit | 3.7 kW | 20–25 km |
| 32 A single-phase | 7.4 kW | 40–50 km |
| 16 A three-phase | 11 kW | 60–75 km |
| 32 A three-phase | 22 kW | 100–120 km |
The last two rows only apply if the vehicle accepts that power. Many cars sold in Australia accept 7 kW or 11 kW on AC, and some accept less. Check the vehicle specification before paying for a three-phase charger.
For most drivers, overnight charging is the whole point. Eight hours at 7 kW is roughly 56 kWh before losses — more than most daily commutes need, and enough to recover from a busy weekend. If you routinely arrive home nearly empty and leave again within a few hours, a faster setup or a public charger on your route may matter more than a bigger home unit.
The 80% rule, 240 V and 7 kW#
What the 80% rule means#
The 80% rule is a daily-charging guideline, not a law. For many lithium-ion EV batteries, keeping the state of charge around 80% for ordinary driving reduces the time spent at a high state of charge, which can be better for long-term battery health. Charge to 100% when you need the range, and follow the manufacturer's recommendation for your vehicle.
Two practical points:
- DC fast charging tapers above 80%. The last 20% takes longer because the charging rate drops to protect the battery. On a road trip, you may spend less time overall by stopping at 80% and continuing.
- Some batteries are different. Lithium iron phosphate (LFP) batteries are often recommended for regular 100% charging to help the battery management system balance the cells. Check the manual rather than applying a blanket rule.
The 80% rule is about battery care, not charging speed at home. A home AC charger will happily charge to 100%; you set the limit in the car or the charger app.
Can you charge from a normal 240 V socket?#
Yes, with caveats. A portable charger on a standard 10 A socket typically delivers about 2.3 kW, which adds roughly 10–15 km of range per hour. That can be enough for a low-kilometre commuter, but it is slow and it puts a continuous load on a circuit that may not have been designed for it.
The socket, circuit and wiring must be suitable for continuous charging. An old or shared circuit can overheat. A portable charger is a temporary solution, not a permanent installation. If you use one regularly, have an electrician check the circuit and consider a dedicated charger.
Is 7 kW enough?#
For most households, yes. A 7 kW charger on single-phase power adds roughly 40–50 km of range per hour, which covers most daily driving in a few hours overnight. You do not need three-phase unless the vehicle accepts more than 7 kW on AC and your driving pattern genuinely needs it.
The vehicle's onboard charger is the limit. Many Australian EVs accept 7 kW or 11 kW on AC; some accept less. Buying a 22 kW charger for a car limited to 7 kW does not make charging faster.
Portable charger vs wall charger#
This is one of the first decisions for a new EV owner, and it is really a question of daily use versus occasional top-up.
| Aspect | Portable charger | Wall charger |
|---|---|---|
| Power | Usually 2.3 kW on a 10 A socket | Commonly 7 kW on a dedicated circuit |
| Range added per hour | Roughly 10–15 km | Roughly 40–50 km |
| Installation | Plugs into an existing socket | Fixed unit, licensed electrician required |
| Safety | Depends on the socket and circuit | Dedicated circuit, protection and load management |
| Best for | Occasional or emergency top-up, travel | Daily home charging |
A portable charger is worth having in the boot as a backup, and it can work for a low-kilometre commuter who charges on a suitable, checked circuit. It is not the best daily solution: it is slow, and it puts a continuous load on a socket that may share a circuit with other appliances.
A wall charger on a dedicated circuit is the safer, faster daily answer. The extra cost buys a circuit designed for hours of continuous load, proper protection, and usually load management and app control.
Neither is a substitute for the other. Many owners keep a portable charger for trips and a wall charger for home, which covers both patterns without relying on a stretched extension lead.
What it costs#
As a 2026 planning range, a straightforward 7 kW charger installed in Australia commonly falls somewhere around $1,200–$2,800, including a basic to mid-range unit and a short cable run. A premium charger, a long run, switchboard work, three-phase supply or an apartment car park can push the total well above that.
The installed price is made up of the unit, the circuit and cable, protection, labour, load management and commissioning. A low headline price often excludes the parts of the job that make it safe. Our installation cost guide breaks down the line items.
Choosing the right setup for your home#
Work through the practical questions before you compare chargers:
- How many kilometres do you drive on a normal day, and how many at the weekend?
- Where is the car parked overnight, and how far is that from the switchboard?
- Is the supply single-phase or three-phase?
- Do you have solar, or plans to add it?
- Will one EV charge at home, or two?
- Do you need a tethered cable, or is untethered better for your parking layout?
- Does the charger need to work outdoors, and what weather protection is required?
If you drive under 60 km most days, a 7 kW charger is usually ample. If you do not know whether the supply is single-phase or three-phase, that is the first thing to check. The single-phase vs three-phase guide explains the difference without the sales pitch.
Solar changes the calculation. A charger that can follow excess solar output is more useful than one that simply runs at full power at midday and imports the difference. Our solar EV charging guide covers the controls and the limits.
The mistakes that cost money#
The most common mistake is buying the charger before the electrician sees the switchboard. A charger that looked like a bargain can require a board upgrade, a longer cable run or load management that was never in the budget.
The second is assuming three-phase means faster charging. It only helps if the car can accept more than 7 kW on AC, and if the supply upgrade is worth the cost.
The third is treating load management as optional. On a smaller or older supply, a 7 kW charger plus an oven, air conditioner and hot water can exceed what the house can draw. A good installer will test the supply and configure the charger to reduce output when the house needs power, rather than tripping the main switch.
The fourth is skipping the support questions. A charger is installed equipment with software. Ask who supports it locally, how firmware updates are handled, and what happens if it fails in year three.
Bottom line#
Home charging is mature, practical and cheaper than public charging for most households. The right system is usually a 7 kW charger on a dedicated circuit, sized to the car and the supply, with load management if the house needs it. Get the electrical assessment first, then choose the charger and compare installed quotes on the same scope.
Straight answers
Questions people ask about this
Can I charge an EV from a normal power point at home?
You can use a portable charger on a suitable existing socket, but it is slow and the socket and circuit must be rated for continuous charging. It is not a substitute for a dedicated charger, and fixed wiring must be installed by a licensed electrician.
How long does a home EV charger installation take?
A straightforward single-phase installation can take a few hours. A long cable run, switchboard upgrade, trenching, three-phase work or shared parking can take a full day or more, plus any approval time.
Do I need a three-phase charger?
Usually not. A 7 kW single-phase charger covers most overnight charging. Three-phase can support 11 kW or 22 kW, but only if the vehicle's onboard charger accepts that power and the supply can deliver it.
What is the 80% rule for EV charging?
The 80% rule is a guideline for everyday charging: keep the battery around 80% for normal use and charge to 100% when you need the range. It is not a strict rule for every vehicle. Some lithium iron phosphate batteries are designed to be charged to 100% regularly, and DC fast charging slows down above 80% anyway. Follow the vehicle manufacturer's guidance.
Can I charge an EV from a normal 240 V socket?
You can use a portable charger on a suitable existing socket, but it is slow and the socket, circuit and wiring must be rated for continuous charging. It is not a permanent substitute for a dedicated charger. Fixed wiring and new circuits must be installed by a licensed electrician.
What is the difference between a portable charger and a wall charger?
A portable charger plugs into a socket and can be taken with you, but it is slow and relies on a socket and circuit that can handle hours of continuous load. A wall charger is a fixed unit on a dedicated circuit, is faster and safer for daily use, and is the better long-term answer for regular home charging.
What is an EVSE or car charger?
EVSE stands for electric vehicle supply equipment, and it is the technical name for what most people call a car charger or EV charger. It is really a safety and control device that talks to the car, because the actual charger is inside the vehicle. The terms EVSE, car charger and EV charger are often used interchangeably for the wall unit.
Sources and further reading
- Department of Climate Change, Energy, the Environment and Water
- Australian Government energy information
- Australian Energy Regulator
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